Nero Fico

Try venturing into NeroVivo or NeroTeca in Bukit Bintang without a reservation on a weekend evening and you are likely to be disappointed. The closest you get is standing outside, looking at all the smiling faces tucking in to gorgeous food. Put aside your envy for a moment and you will notice the comfortable and lively atmosphere, which has become a hallmark of the Nero Group. People go there for pizzas cooked in a large outdoor oven or the carefully-preserved hams and meats hanging from the walls; it is the ambience that ensures their restaurants are always packed.

The Nero Group’s newest restaurant Nero Fico on Jalan Dungun, doesn't seek to duplicate it. Nero Fico is something else altogether. Nero Fico is bright and spacious, with dramatic flower arrangements and lots of natural light. The deli adds to the dining area and together with the large terrace, makes it perfect as a Sunday Brunch venue. You can feel quite comfortable to laugh heartily yet refined enough not to be smirked at when discussing the virtues of the Barolo in your hand.

The menu tries to reflect the tone of the restaurant with fresh, summery items. We picked out the Insalata Asparagi (RM24) straight away along with the Pizza Napoli (RM24) for a hearty starter. But we were suckered into it by the surroundings; asparagus seems to always be a disappointment, it is hard to get hold of the best kinds in the tropics. The rather unusual presentation that bordered on phallic was also rather disconcerting. The pizza had wonderful flavours and the base was fantastic. It was thin, crispy and yeasty. They could have rinsed the anchovies more; they were exceptionally briny and had you finishing two glasses of water before half the pizza was done.

The idyllic lunch went south with the Gnocchi Sorentina (RM28), which was a special. Now, gnocchi is not easy but I would expect much better because Nero Teca does an excellent gnocchi. Nero Fico’s version has too much potato, a closer cousin to mash with none of the bite that gnocchi should have. The tomato-based sauce was excellent, but the dish was let down by poor texture. Things didn’t really improve with the Chicken Stuffed with Pumpkin and Almond (RM48), another special that shouldn’t be on the main menu. The blueberry sauce was as unusual as it was unnecessary and the pumpkin stuffing did not retain much natural pumpkin flavour.

Thankfully, desserts were heavenly. The Pannacotta (RM20) was silky smooth with a clever addition of dragon fruit purée. The Lemon Tart (RM22) was a thick, luscious custard on a crumbly shortcrust pastry with crispy meringue on top. The sweet vanilla gelato dressed it up quite appropriately. A few glaring points to take note of but it also provided some good memories, not least those desserts. Again, comparison is not justified and Nero Fico should be allowed to grow into its own—one whose progress shall be observed with interest.

Text & Photo Chan Wai Lee